Where would I eat first? The question gnawed at me as the thrill of becoming The Washington Post’s new food critic settled in. A few names turned into a sprawling spreadsheet of restaurants, a syllabus of sorts for my D.C. dining education. It was exhilarating. And daunting. On the tail end of moving day, staring at a wall of boxes in an empty new apartment, what I really needed was to make this city feel like home.
So on night one, I put aside my list of restaurants and walked a few blocks to El Rinconcito Cafe II, a small Latin American spot in Columbia Heights. The lone cheery server managing the restaurant welcomed me warmly, as though we did this every week. The pupusas he brought out, gushing with fresh cheese and shredded pork, were a balm to this newcomer’s soul.
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