S.F. Chronicle restaurant critic Soleil Ho wins James Beard Award for criticism

The annual James Beard Awards are among the most prestigious in the food world and recognize the best chefs, restaurateurs, cookbook authors and food journalists in the United States. The Craig Claiborne prize is the top honor for restaurant criticism, awarded to “discerning criticism that contributes to the larger discourse on cuisine or restaurants.”

“I’m grateful for the validation, because for a long time I felt like the odd person out — both in the food world and in journalism,” said Ho, who joined The Chronicle as restaurant critic in 2019 and previously worked as a freelance writer, podcast producer and restaurant chef.

At The Chronicle, Ho’s reviews often go beyond the food on the table to explore the stories of the people who make it and the larger ethical and cultural issues tied inextricably to what we eat.

“I approach criticism with the assumption that my audience is smart, empathetic and curious, all values that I believe can add up to a better world. Or something close,” they said.

Ho was also nominated for the Craig Claiborne award in 2020, and won this year based on three reviews:

• “The Bay Area is Having a Love Affair with Smashburgers. This is the One You'll Want to Eat Again and Again,” about a pop-up chef who cooks lacy smashburgers as a form of mental health care.
• “Impossible’s New Vegan Nuggets Taste Better than McNuggets. Sadly, that’s not Saying Much,” about the plant-based meat company’s nugget and its ethical implications.
• “S.F. Restaurant’s $72 Fried Rice Was a Runaway Hit. It Was Also the Chef's Nightmare,” about a menu joke that became a bestseller.

In addition to writing restaurant reviews, Ho also spearheads The Chronicle’s Top Restaurants program, writes cultural commentary, hosts the Extra Spicy podcast and authors the Bite Curious newsletter.

About The San Francisco Chronicle:

The San Francisco Chronicle (www.sfchronicle.com) is the largest newspaper in Northern California and the second largest on the West Coast. Acquired by the Hearst Corporation in 2000, The San Francisco Chronicle was founded in 1865 by Charles and Michael de Young and has been awarded six Pulitzer Prizes for journalistic excellence. Follow us on Twitter at @SFChronicle.